One of the complaints I hear most often from knitters is that their sweaters don’t fit. My reply is always, “Did you knit a gauge swatch?” Unfortunately, their answer is almost always, “No.”

Swatching is a controversial subject in knitting—some love swatching, some hate it. But if you want your garments to fit you, learn to love it, or at least tolerate it as part of the process.

Every knitter is different. You’ve heard of loose knitters and tight knitters, right? That difference in tension is what makes it so important to test your gauge with a swatch.

What is Gauge?

In knitting, gauge is the number of stitches to the inch and the number of rows to the inch. Designers include a recommended gauge in almost all patterns so the knitter can make the correct size.

Gauge is one of the most essential and powerful tools in knitting because “getting gauge” means that your garments or accessories will fit perfectly.

I look at gauge as a three-legged stool: Yarn weight, needle size, and knitting tension.

You need to keep the stool balanced; you can change the yarn or the needle to achieve that balance, but you can’t change your tension. What you can do is try needle sizes until you get the correct gauge or change the yarn if you’re not happy with the fabric at the required gauge. Swatching is your friend for balancing the stool.

Gauge: Your Most Useful Tool

This swatch is knit in worsted-weight yarn starting with size US 5s at the bottom and ending with US 15s at the top. You can see how much difference needle sizes make on the same yarn!

If you don’t check your gauge, you’re running the risk of wasting hours of knitting time, not to mention the money you invested in your yarn.

Making a Gauge Swatch

The first step in any knitting project should be knitting a gauge swatch.

Look for the designer’s recommended gauge and cast on 10 percent more stitches than suggested, so you have enough fabric to work with when you’re taking your measurements.

Usually, gauge recommendations are written for a 4-inch square, so knitting at least a 5-inch square is a good idea. You really can’t get an accurate measurement from a swatch smaller than that.

Look for the recommended stitch pattern to use on your gauge swatch—it’s not always stockinette! If you’re knitting a lace or cable project, the designer might call for a gauge in that pattern. I look at this as an opportunity to practice the stitch pattern and become familiar with it before starting the project.

Measuring a Gauge Swatch

Best practice is to block your swatches before taking your measurements. In fact, designers usually note that the gauge given is after blocking. I like to steam block my swatches so I get an accurate reading. You can also wet block your swatch if that’s your preferred blocking method.

All you need to measure a swatch is a tape measure or a knitting needle gauge (such as our adorable Elephant Needle Gauge, shown at the top of the blog).

Gauge: Your Most Useful Tool

Treat yourself to our gorgeous Retractable Tape Measure

Here’s my advice for measuring swatches:

Always lay your swatch flat to measure it. You can get inaccurate measurements if your swatch is on an uneven surface.
Your most accurate measurement will come from the middle of your swatch because the beginning and ending stitches might not be as even as the stitches in the middle of your swatch.
Take a measurement above and below your first measurement to ensure your tension is even throughout the swatch.
Measure your gauge throughout your pattern. Stress can cause your tension to change.
Use a spare knitting needle to count your stitches; having a pointer of some sort makes it easier to see the stitches.
Record your gauge measurements on your pattern, noting the yarn and needle size you used.

Gauge: Your Most Useful Tool

When counting your stitches, look for the Vs. Each V is a stitch. The color of the yarn can make it harder to find the stitches—the darker the yarn, the harder they are to see. Make sure you’re working under a bright light and using a spare knitting needle or other pointer to help you count your stitches.

What if You Don’t Get Gauge?

If your knitting is too tight (too many stitches per inch), switch to a larger knitting needle. If your knitting is too loose (too few stitches per inch), switch to a smaller knitting needle.

Knit another inch or so on the new needles and take a test measurement. Then, if you’re getting gauge, keep going for another few inches take your official gauge measurements.

If you’re not getting gauge, switch needles again as needed. I recommend knitting a purl row between needle sizes so you can easily see where you changed needles.

Tip: Knit a garter ridge between needle sizes, so you know where you changed needles.

Switching needle types can help if you’re having difficulty achieving the correct gauge. Our Symfonie Cubics are lifesavers for knitters who have a hard time with gauge. For some reason, the square needles are helpful for knitters who struggle getting gauge, and with their ergonomic properties, they’re a win-win.

Gauge: Your Most Useful Tool

You can also try switching from metal needles to bamboo needles, or vice versa. I’ve had great success getting gauge with our stainless steel needles.

Consider the Yarn-Needle Combo

When you’re just not getting gauge after trying several needle sizes, you might have a yarn-needle issue. I use bamboo needles or my Karbonz with very slippery yarn, such as silk or nylon-bamboo blends, because those needles have a little bit more grip.

I use Nova Platina, Mindful Collection, or Dreamz with wool or wool-blend yarns; toothier yarn slides beautifully on those smooth needles.

Gauge in the Round vs. Gauge in Flat Knitting

Your gauge is very likely to change if you switch from knitting in the round to knitting in rows. For example, many sweaters are knit in the round from the bottom up and then divided into two parts at the sleeve openings. In this case, you need to check your gauge when you change techniques.

If the project is stockinette stitch, your in-the-round gauge is probably looser than your row gauge because you’re not purling when you’re knitting stockinette in the round.

Check your gauge after a few rows and adjust needle size accordingly.

I hope this helps you get gauge and make garments that fit you. And remember, embrace the swatch!

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Kathleen Cubley shares her knitting on Instagram @kathcub (there might also be some cute dog stuff there). Follow Knitter’s Pride on Instagram and Facebook.